When it comes to matching wine and food, I am no knee-jerk color coder. I've had great red-wine-with fish matches, and great white-wine-with-meat matches, that are far too numerous to mention. However, when the food to be matched is meat on the grill--as in the Fourth of July barbecue--I must confess that I usually do see red.

Here’s Why:

• Tannin. The one thing that red wine normally has that is lacking in white wine is tannin--that scratchy, astringent substance in red wine that comes from grape seeds, grape skins, and, sometimes, the wood in barrels. Tannin creates a tactile sensation--akin to the one you get from drinking overbrewed tea, or biting into the papery part of a walnut. It is not the world's most pleasant sensation, but wine drinkers tolerate it because tannin also acts as a preservative, keeping alive a red wine that has a date with greatness in a few decades or so.

• Fat. Tannin beautifully cuts the fat that one normally encounters in red meat. If that grilled steak seems a little rich for you, if those lamb chops seem a little greasy, if that juicy burger's a little too juicy--a gulp of tannin-rich red wine will make your mouth feel cleaner and better.

• Grilled Meat. Grilled red meat develops a little bitterness from its exterior char--and, because like often cancels out like in wine-and-food matching, that bitterness makes the bitter tannin seem softer. A match made in heaven!

-David Rosengarten

Serving Suggestions

Barossa Valley Estate 2001 "Spires" Shiraz, Barossa Valley ($9.99)
This luscious, blackberry fruited Shiraz comes from the same estate that makes the E & E Black Pepper Shiraz, one of Australia's cult-shiraz bottlings. This is the quintessential BBQ Shiraz.

Woop Woop 2003 Shiraz, South Eastern Australia ($13.99)
Young Aussie wine importer Ben Hammerschlag brings this amazingly drinkable Shiraz bargain to the States. A spicy, succulent fruit bomb that tastes like a $20 bottle. Great for summer roof-top parties.

RockBare 2002 Shiraz, Mclaren Vale - South Australia ($19.99)
The tasty Rockbare Shiraz combines opulent chocolate and berry flavors along with great texture and a long finish. A serious wine for a great price. Fabulous with grilled skirt steak.

Marquis Philips 2003 Shiraz 9, Mclaren Vale ($49.99)
Husband and wife winemaking team Sarah and Sparky Marquis collaborated with Grateful Palate importer Dan Philips to produce this flamboyantly delicious Shiraz. The Shiraz 9 is as rich and intense as red wine gets. Enjoyable now for its luscious chocolate, sweet bacon, and blackberry jam flavors; can also stand up to cellaring for 5-8 years.

-Jesse Salazar